The Indian Thread in Global Luxury: How Centuries-Old Craftsmanship Is Shaping Slow Fashion in 2025

From the ateliers of Paris to the boutiques of New York and Milan, the whisper of Indian craftsmanship is unmistakably woven into the seams of global luxury. Whether it's the intricate needlework of chikankari or the luminous handloom of Banarasi silk, India's artisanal heritage has silently—and profoundly—influenced some of the most iconic fashion houses and luxury brands around the world.

As the world turns its eye toward conscious consumption and “slow luxury,” India’s centuries-old crafts are finding new relevance—not just as aesthetic marvels but as symbols of sustainability, ethical fashion, and human artistry.

A Rich Tapestry: Indian Craftsmanship in Luxury Fashion

In the age of slow luxury and conscious consumption, true style is no longer just about trendsetting—it's about storytelling. And few narratives are as rich, intricate, and enduring as those spun through the hands of India’s artisans.

From the ceremonial silks of Varanasi to the fine embroidery of Lucknow, Indian craftsmanship is now a mainstay on the global fashion stage. Top luxury houses like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and even Prada are tapping into this vast reservoir of design heritage. Yet, the way they do it—and whether they honor the craft’s origin—has become a defining line between appreciation and appropriation.

Let’s explore the top Indian crafts captivating luxury designers…

Gigi Hadid in Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla Chikankari saree at NMACC launch

Chikankari: The Subtle Power of Hand Embroidery

Craft Origin: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh

Used by: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Tarun Tahiliani

Delicate, ethereal, and painstakingly detailed, Chikankari is a form of hand embroidery from Lucknow dating back to the Mughal era. Traditionally done on muslin or fine cotton with white thread, it has evolved to suit contemporary palettes and fabrics. Designers like Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have elevated chikankari to red-carpet couture, with celebrities like Beyoncé, Judi Dench, and Deepika Padukone donning their elaborate ensembles. Globally, elements of chikankari-inspired motifs have filtered into international collections, who appreciate the understated elegance of this Indian handwork. Each piece of chikankari can take weeks—sometimes months—to complete, depending on its complexity. Artisans use up to 40 different types of stitches, making each creation a slow, meditative process rooted in patience and heritage.

Globally, elements of chikankari-inspired motifs have filtered into collections by Fendi and Elie Saab, who appreciate the understated elegance of this Indian handwork.

Christian Louboutin x Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Banarasi Weave: Where Silk Meets Story

Craft Origin: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Used by: Sabyasachi, Raw Mango, Christian Louboutin x Sabyasachi

The Banarasi silk saree, originating in Varanasi, is often called the epitome of Indian luxury. Known for its lustrous texture and intricate zari (gold and silver thread) patterns, it was once reserved for royalty. Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee has globalized this weave, integrating it into bridal couture and Western silhouettes like coats and dresses. Authentic Banarasi weaving is a manual process involving jacquard looms, hand-knotting, and days—sometimes months—of meticulous labor. Each piece supports local weavers and preserves the legacy of a craft endangered by fast fashion knockoffs.

This brings us to a time when two titans—Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Christian Louboutin—joined hands, the outcome wasn’t just a collection, but a homage to Indian textile history. Their capsule of shoes and bags used vintage Benarasi fabrics, Kalamkari linings, and zardozi detailing.

Each item was handcrafted in Indian workshops, ensuring artisans got the spotlight alongside the luxury product. This wasn’t a vague “inspired by India” story—it was about bringing Indian crafts into Western silhouettes, with equal creative footing.

Dior’s landmark Show, which took place in 2023 in Mumbai

Zardozi: The Art of Gilded Threads

Craft Origin: Lucknow, Delhi, Hyderabad

Used by: JJ Valaya, Falguni Shane Peacock, Dior, Faraz Manan

Zardozi, meaning "gold embroidery," was historically used to embellish royal garments, wall hangings, and ceremonial regalia. The technique involves hand-stitching gold or silver threads, often with pearls or gemstones, onto silk, velvet, or tulle. Designers like JJ Valaya have revived zardozi in Indian couture, while brands like Alexander McQueen and Balmain have incorporated similar metalwork embroidery in their baroque-inspired pieces. Zardozi is a labor-intensive craft performed by master artisans in workshops passed down through generations. Reviving this technique prevents the extinction of highly specialized skills and promotes artisanal livelihoods.

In 2023, Dior’s pre-fall show at Mumbai’s Gateway of India was a landmark moment—not just because of the location, but because of the genuine collaboration with Indian artisans behind the scenes. Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri worked with the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai, integrating hand embroidery and textile work by Indian women artisans into her global couture vision.

This was a rare example where a major European fashion house placed heritage Indian craft at the heart of the collection—not just in the margins. Brands like Alexander McQueen and Balmain have incorporated similar metalwork embroidery in their baroque-inspired pieces.

Dior’s 2025 show featured scenography inspired by 17th-century botanical sketches, Kalamkari prints, Mughal paintings and Kalighat folk art by Indian artist Rithika Merchant | P.C. Prarthna Singh, Adrien Dirand

Kalamkari: The Painted Cloth of Nature and Myth

Craft Origin: Andhra Pradesh, Telangana

Used by: Dior (Maria Grazia Chiuri)

Kalamkari, meaning “pen craft,” is a 3,000-year-old hand-painting or block-printing technique from Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. It often depicts mythological narratives and natural motifs using vegetable dyes on cotton or silk. Dior’s Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri has prominently showcased kalamkari, giving the traditional art a global stage. Christian Louboutin’s celebrated collaboration with Sabyasachi included heels and clutches featuring kalamkari lining and accents. Kalamkari is inherently sustainable. Artisans use organic dyes derived from plants, minerals for fixing colors—a zero-waste, biodegradable process.

Photo Courtesy: Philadelphia Museum of Art | Phulkari gowns by Indian designer Manish Malhotra

Phulkari: The Floral Poetry of Punjab

Craft Origin: Punjab (from 15th Century)

Used by: Manish Malhotra, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Arpita Mehta, Gucci and Valentino (inspiration from Phulkari motifs for select collections)

Once worn as a symbol of love, blessing, and celebration in Punjab’s heartland, Phulkari—meaning “flower work”—is now blooming on global runways. Traditionally stitched with silk floss on coarse cotton (khaddar), each piece is a tapestry of vivid geometric florals that seem to shimmer with life.

Luxury labels and couture designers have been rediscovering Phulkari’s charm, adapting its bold patterns to contemporary silhouettes. Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have used Phulkari panels in haute couture jackets, while international houses have toyed with similar motifs for resort wear. Even Dior’s 2023 India-inspired capsule drew subtle inspiration from Punjabi embroidery traditions, highlighting the cross-cultural appetite for intricate handwork.

As with all slow fashion crafts, Phulkari is inherently sustainable—hand-stitched over weeks or months, often using locally sourced cotton and naturally dyed threads. In a fashion world obsessed with instant trends, Phulkari is a quiet rebellion: timeless, tactile, and steeped in stories. Phulkari has been featured in global exhibitions like at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, showcasing its historical and aesthetic significance.

Alia Bhatt in Ajrakh saree by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla for an awards function in Riyadh

Ajrakh: Indigo Geometry with a Conscience

Craft Origin: Kutch, Gujarat
Used by: Rahul Mishra, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Princess Diya Kumari Foundation (PKDF) Store

Ajrakh is a form of resist-dye block printing using natural indigo and geometric symmetry, primarily crafted in Gujarat and Sindh. The fabric undergoes a 14–16 step process involving natural fermentation, sun-drying, and dye layering. Modern designers like Rahul Mishra and Rajesh Pratap Singh have adapted Ajrakh into contemporary forms, while global designers including Stella McCartney have explored similar dye techniques and prints in their sustainable collections. Ajrakh printing is water-efficient and chemical-free, with every stage conducted manually. This makes it an earth-positive process that supports slow fashion principles.

Paris-based Indian designer Rahul Mishra is perhaps the strongest example of a luxury designer exporting Indian handwork to the world, while keeping it rooted in tradition. From 3D florals hand-embroidered by karigars in Bengal to Ajrakh-printed silks sourced from Gujarat, every garment speaks of a craft-first philosophy. Rahul’s collections have been praised by Vogue, Business of Fashion, and even Hermès designers for showcasing slow fashion through artisan partnerships.

India and the Global Pivot to Slow Luxury

So, why is Indian craftsmanship making a comeback in the luxury arena? The answer lies in a growing consumer consciousness. In a world fatigued by fast fashion and throwaway culture, the demand for authenticity, sustainability, and storytelling is higher than ever.

Craft as Culture, Not Just Commodity - Each craft carries the weight of centuries. When you wear a Banarasi jacket or a chikankari gown, you’re not just wearing fashion—you’re wearing history, geography, and identity. This emotional depth is what separates slow luxury from mass-produced status symbols. Every Banarasi weave, every zardozi stitch, supports multi-generational knowledge and keeps fading skills alive. Fashion becomes livelihood, not just luxury.

Ethical Supply Chains and Artisanal Equity - Luxury brands are increasingly focusing on transparent supply chains and ethical sourcing. Supporting Indian artisans ensures not just fair wages but craft preservation, providing communities with long-term employment and cultural dignity. Many Indian textiles are made using organic dyes, handlooms, and biodegradable materials. Unlike mass-produced polyester blends, these pieces return to the earth without harm.

Durability and Timeless Design - Slow fashion prioritizes longevity over trendiness. Indian textiles like khadi, handloom cotton, and pure silk are designed to last generations—sometimes improving with age.

Unlike fast fashion’s breakneck cycles, Indian handlooms and embroideries take weeks—sometimes months—to complete. Each piece becomes a labour of patience, making it inherently luxurious.

Photo: ©Dolly Haorambam / Courtesy of Christian Dior

The Future of Indian Craftsmanship in Luxury

As luxury brands continue to court purpose alongside profit, expect more direct collaborations with Indian craftspeople, textile cooperatives, and master artisans. But the responsibility doesn’t just lie with fashion houses.

Conscious consumers are the real tastemakers today. Every purchase becomes a vote—for the planet, for people, and for the preservation of something ancient and beautiful.

Indian craftsmanship is no longer just India’s heritage—it is global luxury’s future.

When Luxury Slows Down, Art Speaks Louder

In the world of high fashion, true luxury isn’t fast. It’s measured, intentional, and infused with meaning. Indian craftsmanship has never needed reinvention—it has only needed rediscovery. As more designers and consumers embrace slow fashion, India’s legacy looms large—not just in warp and weft, but in the soul of luxury itself.

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